Quotation of the Week: "Let no one think that real gardening is a bucolic and meditative occupation. It is an insatiable passion, like everything else to which a man gives his heart." — Karel Capek

The Rose: "Queen of Flowers"

This photo “courtesy of Weeks Roses.”

A Basic Rose Primer — from Planting to Cutting: Planting Our rose bushes come pruned and ready for planting. Loosen all labels so they will not cut into the plants. It is a good idea to check these labels annually, to keep them from girdling and killing the branch. Select a location free from tree or shrub roots. These roots tend to rob the plant of food and moisture. The location should have at least 6 hours of sun, however full sun is best. When you purchase a rose at Orchard Nursery it will be in a paper pot. This enables you to plant your rose at any time. To plant your rose, dig a hole twice as wide as the pot and half again as deep. Amend the soil you have dug out by adding Fir Bark Mulch, Paydirt, Chicken Manure or Bumper Crop to make a 50/50 mixture. Make four slits in the sides of the paper pot. Add Osmocote slow release fertilizer and enough of the soil mix back into the hole so that the soil level of the rose is even with your garden soil when the paper pot is placed in the hole. Tuck remaining soil mixture around the sides of the pot, tamping it tightly in place. The lip of the paper pot will be protruding above the soil, this may be left to form a watering basin for the first year or it can be cut off. Mulching Mulching is very important. It keeps the soil cool in summer and warm in winter. It retains moisture, controls weed growth, and renews and rebuilds the humus content of the soil around the plants. We recommend Kellogg’s “Bumper Crop” all organic soil builder as a mulch. Fertilizing Roses are heavy feeders and to get the maximum bloom, feeding should be frequent. On newly planted roses, we prefer to start feeding them with Master Nursery “Master Start” pre plant fertilizer when the growth is about 2 inches long and repeat the feeding every two or three weeks. For established plants, feed once every 6 weeks with Master Nursery “Rose Food”. Watering Roses need regular watering during the growing season, but will not tolerate wet feet. In most soils, a good deep watering once a week is sufficient. If the weather is very hot and dry, more frequent watering may be necessary. Basal Canes vs. Suckers The difference between basal canes and suckers can be difficult for the inexperienced rose gardener. A basal cane is the lush growth that originates at the bud union. The foliage and thorns have the same characteristics as the top growth. This is the best wood on the plant and should be encouraged. A basal cane may, however, grow very tall with a large cluster of blooms on the end. To avoid this, pinch out the tip of the cane when it is about 18" tall. A sucker comes from below the bud union point where branching begins. The foliage, thorns, and types of growth are entirely different than that at the top. This type of cane is generally much longer and more willowy in growth than a basal cane, and does not terminate in a bud. Suckers rob the top growth of needed nourishment, and should be cut off closely to the point of origin. Spraying Like all living plants, roses may be attacked by insects and fungus diseases. A good fungicide and insecticide may be combined to control both in a single spraying. While spraying once in ten days is usually sufficient, this may vary in different locations. We will be glad to assist you with your particular problems and recommend specific sprays. Pruning It is difficult to have a set rule for pruning, as various types of roses require different methods. As a general rule, however, one should cut out the old wood, keep the new wood, and above all, retain the symmetrical shape of the plant. The remaining new wood should be cut back half the length of its growth during the previous season. Each cut should be made a quarter-inch above an eye facing the outside. Weak wood and crossed branches should also be removed. Plants pruned severely will produce fewer, but higher quality blooms. Moderate pruning will result in a greater abundance of blooms. Climbing roses, as a rule, produce blooms on canes that grew during the preceding year. You will get more blooms from your climber if the canes are trained to run parallel with the ground. Older plants may be pruned by removing several of the oldest canes, characterized by their heavier growth and woodier appearance. Floribunda roses are pruned in much the same way as hybrid teas, but require milder pruning which results in a greater mass of bloom. Cutting Roses On newly planted bushes, cut off the flower with a very short stem, leaving as much foliage as possible. Only a few varieties of roses will bloom the first year. On older plants, leave three or four strong leaves on the stem, cutting a quarter inch above a leaf pointing to the outside. Once established, cut or deadhead roses to the first outward facing 5-leaf leaflet, above that stems origin. Single and semi-single roses should be cut just as the petals open showing color; double roses as the petals unfurl to not over half-open; very double roses when about 2/3rds open. It is best to pick in the late afternoon, when the sugars in the plants are at the maximum.

Spring Preview in the Flower Shop

The spring season is a favorite time for the Flower Shop. A new year, fresh hopes, and new spring merchandise! Here are a few of the spring themes the Flower Shop has in store for you. The Flower Shop will be jumpin’, with frogs that is. Our display will feature many different looks, from cute to beautiful. Come in and see the selection of accessories inspired by these endearing creatures. Give the gift of frogs! Glorious permanent botanical peonies in every shade of pink, perfectly accented with rich brown accessories. Beautiful prints featuring peonies will also complement the look. Love is in the air or at least will be soon! Our valentine display will be decked out in red, black and white this year. A romantic color scheme with a bit of sophistication, just in time to inspire that perfect gift for your loved one. All things new and beautiful in robins egg blue and brown, pussy willow, vases and more! Fresh vibrant yellows and greens, the perfect color pallet for late winter early spring. Stop by and get inspired by our new spring look.

Permanent Topiaries

These lifelike topiaries capture the look and feel of our favorite botanical gardens. Now available in the Flower Shop, they can be placed in low light and never need water. You may choose from many shapes, sizes and plant varieties, such as rosemary, cedar or ivy.

Let it rain!

Sunday Afternoons Cloudburst hats offer exceptional coverage from rain, be it light showers or hard downpours. Waterproof breathable fabrics keep your head dry while the skin soft wick-away liner encourages internal condensation release. Classically designed and fully seam sealed. This hat features a 4 -inch front brim and 6 -inch rear veil to keep rain outside of your collar. Our custom sizing system works externally so you can keep the hat on while adjusting. When the sun peaks out, your face is protected from UV rays. Best for wet weather use.

Recipe of the Week: Peanut Butter Oat Bars

What You'll Need: 2/3 cup butter or margarine, melted 1/4 cup peanut butter 1 cup packed brown sugar 1/4 cup light corn syrup 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract 4 cups quick-cooking oats TOPPING: 1 cup milk chocolate chips 1/2 cup butterscotch chips 1/3 cup peanut butter

Step by Step:

In a mixing bowl, combine the butter, peanut butter, brown sugar, corn syrup and vanilla; gradually add the oats. Press into a greased 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking pan. Bake at 400ºF for 12-14 minutes or until edges are brown. Cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, for topping, melt all chips and peanut butter in a microwave or saucepan. Stir until blended; spread over warm bar mixture. Cool completely; refrigerate for 2-3 hours before cutting. Yield: 4 dozen bars