Anyone Can Have a Garden; Anyone Can Be a Gardener

What's an annual, a perennial, a biennial? What about pH? Soil structure, deciduous vs. evergreen, how do I prune, why do I prune?

With the stressful lives we lead, sharing the joys of gardening has become even more important to us. Whether planting a tree as a memorial or just relieving daily stresses by getting in touch with nature - a little dirt under the fingernails can be very healing.

There's always something new to learn and share (comments, requests, and garden ideas are welcome)!

So you want to have a garden? The most basic beginning should be to understand how plants grow; we will go into more detail with each category in future articles. For now the basics to remember are that plants need:
Proper light - sun or shade
Food - is supplementing fertilizer necessary?
Water - how much depends on your soil and the plant type

Plant selection is important. Try to find out the name of the flower or plant that you like - or look for it in your local nursery. Once you know the name of a plant, you can find out just about anything about it that you need to know. Pay attention to the three needs above and you'll be well on your way to a successful garden.

So try planting something - get started! Try something a close neighbor is growing that you like - it will be likely to do well in your yard, too. Those of you who claim to have a "black thumb" - how do you know it won't grow, if you don't plant it?

Getting to Know Garden Terms:

Annual: a plant that completes its life cycle in one season (one year or less) - it grows, blooms, makes seeds, then dies. (ex: Marigold)

Perennial: a non-woody plant that grows for more than 2 years. (ex: Shasta daisy, Agapanthus)

Biennial: a plant that completes its life cycle in 2 years. It grows the first year, goes dormant in winter, and then blooms the next year. (ex: Foxglove)

pH: a measure of the acidity and alkalinity of the soil using a scale from 1 to 14, where 7 is neutral, less than 7 is acid and greater than 7 is alkaline. Distilled water is neutral (with a pH of 7), lemon juice is very acid (with a pH of 2.6) and baking soda is very alkaline (with a pH of 8.5).

We all love to see daffodils showing their faces in spring. Customers come rushing in wanting to plant the bulbs of yellow flowers. But we are forced to tell them "Sorry, it's too late." Fall is the time to plan ahead for spring bulb color.

Tulips, crocus and daffodils are the traditional standby bulbs. But for those that like the unusual, there are many spectacular varieties to choose from. They can be layered in containers or in your flower bed so that the colors just keep popping up. Crocus are the earliest blooming. Throw them into a flower bed and plant them where they land. Tulips are great in containers to show off your favorite pot in early spring. For a great show and color display, plant 8-10 daffodil bulbs in the same large hole.

Iris, alliums, narcissus and hyacinths need to be planted in the fall as well. Don't forget that hyacinths and freesias are fragrant. Plant them where your nose as well as eyes can appreciate their beauty.

And last but not least, fall is the time to plant garlic. Planning ahead for a summer garlic harvest requires putting the bulbs in the ground in the fall. For a mild flavor try elephant garlic. The bulbs are larger but just as easy to grow as regular garlic.

Don't be disappointed when your neighbors have daffodils and crocus popping up in the yard next spring and you have bare ground. Plan and plant ahead! Choose your bulbs now and plant in the fall.

Join us for our next Girls' night out Tuesday, October 4th, as we celebrate October as Breast Cancer Awareness Month. To honor that, we will be having a fundraiser to benefit John Muir’s Breast Cancer Support Services.

There's no sure way to protect your home from a raging fire, but there are some things you can do to minimize the risk. If you live next to native brush or chapparal - near a canyon, for example - take these steps to protect your property.

• Keep the landscape close to your home well-watered. Don't grow flammable plants such as pine trees close to your home or allow them to overhang your roof. (Shrubs and trees with lush green leaves, like pittosporum, are recommended for green belts.)

• Don't mound shrubbery close to your house. Shrubs should be spaced apart from each other and kept low. For safety from fire when houses are close together, it's best to have no shrubbery between them.

• Create a buffer zone. A well-watered green area of low-growing plants can act as a firebreak between you and the chapparal. The buffer zone should be at least 30 feet wide on flat ground and progressively wider as slopes get steeper. Walls, rocks, patios, rustic seats, and wandering paths can be part of the landscaping. Use plant materials that have proven their ability to withstand some fires, such as succulents and cacti. Coarse carpobrotus iceplant is not recommended, but rosea iceplant is. (Ask your local UC Cooperative Extension Office or the California Department of Forestry for additional information and plant lists.)

• Manage the existing brush. Go right down into the chapparal and remove the fuel load from inside. (Be on the lookout for poison oak, rattlesnakes, and sudden drop-offs in the terrain.) The buildup of dead leaves, twigs, branches and weeds in the understory is what makes the hottest fires. You may have to use a chain saw. (Keep a fire extinguisher and a shovel close at hand in case of sparks.) Cut out and haul away or chip and compost all of the dead stuff that builds up inside native shrubs. Leave all the green growth on the outside. When you're finished you'll have a wonderland of usable space for birds and other wildlife that inhabit our precious chaparral.