Watering, weeding, and deadheading (and harvesting, if you are growing vegetables and herbs) head the list of projects for this month.

Watering - Watering may be the biggest job this month, especially when the weather gets hot. To keep a lawn green and lush, water about one inch every five to seven days.

Make a frequent check of flowers and vegetables for their watering needs. Generally, you'll want to give them about an inch of water each week; deep, less frequent watering is better for them than frequent surface watering. When possible, water in the morning so the soil has a chance to warm up before the cooler evening hours set in, as well as giving the foliage plenty of time to dry.

Check outdoor container plants every day during hot weather and about every second day in more moderate weather. Water them thoroughly each time you water.

Weeding - With warmer weather and more frequent watering, weed seeds will germinate faster. In addition, many weeds seed at this time of year and the seeds will be blown or carried into your garden. Take time to keep the weeds cultivated out of all parts of the garden.

Many weeds are hosts to insects and diseases. Keep them under control, so pests and diseases do not infest your other garden plants.

Harvesting - Pick fruits and vegetables as soon as they're ripe. Overripe fruits especially can attract a number of pests, and in this month's hotter weather, they will rot very quickly.

Deadheading - Keep deadheading flowers as they fade; not only will the plants look better, but if they're allowed to produce and shed their seeds, they're more likely to stop producing new blooms. Just a little time spent on grooming the plants really makes a big difference in the appearance of the garden.

Other Chores

Fall Vegetables - Right now is the time to start fall and winter vegetables. Plant or seed them directly into the garden or start them indoors. Green onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, radishes, and over-wintering cauliflower are the most popular vegetables to grow in the winter garden.

If you choose not to have a winter vegetable garden, consider planting a nitrogen-fixing cover crop to be turned into the soil in the spring.

Lawns - Watering is by far the most important lawn project this month. Water in the morning when it is still cool, so there will be less water lost to evaporation and so the lawn will not remain cool and damp overnight (and attract fungus or algae).

Raise the cutting height on your mower to keep grass longer, conserving water and helping roots stay cool.

Wildflower seeds tend to be ripe by late summer, so if you have a meadow to mow, this is a good month to hop on the tractor.

Perennials and Biennials - Many plants can be started from seed sown directly into the garden this month or next. Iris and other early-blooming perennials can still be divided this month and even into September. Choose a cool day or time of day, and give them a tall drink of water in their new locations.

Planning and Planting - This is the month to select fall bulbs for planting. Design your garden now, rather than waiting till the last minute. If you haven't yet removed dead and dying spring blooming-annuals, do so, and amend the soil for later planting. Replant with fresh color to add fall magic to your yard.

Houseplants - Houseplants will need to be watered more often this month, especially if they're in a sunny window.

If you are going on vacation, move plants out of direct sunlight, especially those in south-facing windows. If you have a helpful neighbor who will water them, good. Otherwise, water them thoroughly before you leave.

Slugs and Bugs - Take time to examine the garden on a weekly basis to see if slugs or any kind of bugs are ruining the appearance of any of your flowers or shrubs.

Our nursery professionals can help you determine what is causing the problem and recommend the appropriate steps to take to eliminate the culprits.

First, a note on summer planting — There are those that think rose planting season is over by now. After all, it's past the first of June; aren't they supposed to be planted in cold weather at bareroot season? Nonsense. You can plant roses in the summer.

Here are a few tips for hot weather planting: Always make sure the rose is well watered before planting; never plant (or fertilize) a dry or wilted plant. Provide lots of water after planting. It's a good idea to trim back some of the top growth so the roots don't have to work so hard. You can safely take off about 1/3 of the top growth. Use lots of planting mix and save some for a top dressing of mulch to help keep the roots cool.

Once they are planted, these simple tips on care can help you keep your roses happy and healthy.

Caring for Your Roses

Remember that prevention by proper care is the best protection against problems. Roses need a sunny location with at least 5 hours of sun per day. They perform better in a rich moist soil with regular feeding every 6-8 weeks. We recommend following Bonnie's Rose Fertilizer Program.<--click-here for the .pdf file. If you have just a few roses, or you're short on time, we recommend Master Nursery Rose and Flower Food. After each bloom cycle, prune back canes anywhere between the first five-leafed leaflet and at least two leaflets above the previous cut.

The Most Common Problems Are:

Aphids. Tiny insects found on the tips of new growth and buds.

Thrips. Tiny insects found on the inside of flowers, thrips cause distorted and stunted blossoms. They usually show up at the end of summer in warm weather.

Mites. These microscopic spider-like insects suck on leaf tissue and produce webbing between the foliage. They produce a speckled fading effect on the leaves and are most active in temperatures above 85 degrees.

Powdery mildew. A fungal disease that looks like white dust on the leaves.

Rust. A fungal disease that looks like orange powder on the backs of the leaves. Avoid watering late in the day to help prevent fungal problems.

For insects, a horticultural oil such as Pestfighter will take care........For fungus and disease we recommend Ortho RosePride Disease Control.

There is a wealth of information available on rose care. By following the simple basics discussed here, even the beginning gardener should be able to enjoy roses. Just remember - lots of sunshine, water and regular feeding.

Quick Overview of Modern Rose Types

Miniatures — Small leaves with flowers 1-2 inches wide are borne in clusters on plants 1-2 feet tall and wide. Great for containers and use in borders.
Floribunda — The blooms resemble hybrid teas in form but are smaller in size and borne in clusters of 5-10. They average 3-4 feet in height.
Grandiflora — Blooms are slightly smaller than hybrid teas but slightly larger than floribundas borne in clusters of 3-5. They generally grow to 5-7 feet high.
Hybrid Tea — Large flowers 4-6 inches across are borne singly or in small clusters. They average 4-6 feet in height and are most typically used as cut flowers.
Polyantha — Clusters of small to medium sized flowers usually on low, shrubby plants 2-3 feet high and wide. Excellent for border plantings.
Climbers — Varieties with long arching canes that can climb up walls or fences with support. They usually spread up to 10-15 feet
English Roses — A cross between modern teas and old world roses. Usually very fragrant, cupped, multi-petaled flowers on plants 3-7 feet high.
Shrub Roses — Clusters of small to medium-sized flowers. The plants range from low to spreading, and from to 4-6 feet high and equally wide. Developed for lower maintenance.