Congratulations to Flower Shop designers, Carolyn Russell and Cynthia Maunes for their beautiful floral interpretation of Maynard Dixon’s painting, “November in Nevada”, for The 28th Annual Bouquets to Art at the de Young Museum.

This massively popular event premiered 150 floral arrangements by prominent designers and garden clubs.
We are proud to have such talent at your fingertips, so come to our Flower Shop and see what our design team can create for your next event, cocktail/dinner party or gallery opening!

Correct watering is an acquired skill, but close observation of your plant will help you determine when to water. Citrus trees like deep, infrequent watering so they stay on the dry side of moist! Watering frequency will vary with temperature and maturity but watering deeply once a week should be enough for a plant in the ground. Container plants may need watering twice a week but it is important to allow the soil surface to dry out between waterings. A moisture meter can be helpful to determine moisture levels at root level. A wilted tree that perks up within 24 hours after watering was too dry, a tree with yellow or cupped leaves or a wilted plant that doesn’t perk up after watering is too wet…adjust your watering schedule accordingly. Ultimately, you want to find a consistent watering schedule for each season so your plant will get enough but not too much water…remember, it’s better to be too dry than too wet.
Mulching is recommended to help preserve soil moisture and restrict the growth of weeds. Almost any material can be used—decorative bark or rock, peat moss, oak leaves, pine needles, etc.



Spring fetes deserve a fabulous look. Complete yours with one of our amazing hats or "Fascinators" (What's a Fascinator? Come in and see!)
For Easter and Kentucky Derby parties, teas and luncheons, weddings, or just to look amazing.
Head over soon!

Cacti and succulents can take full sun even in the hottest areas, have no pest problems and are impossible to kill. Too good to be true? You're right! The truth is that many succulents are native to coastal climates around the world and need protection from the two extremes we experience in our inland valleys - frosty cold and hot sun. They can also get infestations of aphids and mealybugs, especially if they are under stress - and yes, it is possible to kill them - usually with kindness rather than neglect. In part one of this article, I will address the most common cultural problems that affect succulents and their solutions.
Like any other plant, succulent plants (this includes cacti) need to be planted in the right place with the right soil to be happy, healthy and strong. Once damaged, it takes a good deal of time for succulents to recover. Rosettes can become misshapen and large-leaved plants can look lopsided and 'hacked' after trimming off damaged parts. Planting them in the right exposure in fast-draining soil will keep them from getting damaged in the first place. Choose your plants wisely, taking careful note of cold hardiness and sun requirements and plant in a mix of 60% Cactus Planting Mix and 40% Volcanic Pumice.
Signs of freeze damage: Black spots on leaves or stems, pale streaks or lines on leaves can be signs of cold damage. But most often the entire plant or the most exposed part of the plant will turn transparent or 'mushy.' This damage is irreversible. The affected parts must be trimmed off and the remaining plant covered to keep it warmer and drier. If it is in a container it must be brought against the house under the cover of a roof. If the damage is localized, this may be enough to save it, but recovery will take time in the spring. Also, keeping succulents on the dry side during winter and in a place where moisture drains away quickly is the key to their survival in colder temperatures.
Signs of scorch or sunburn: Large faded patches on the middle or edges of leaves that eventually turn brown are typical indications of sunburn. Move the plant to a place that receives less direct sun or place a shade cover over it. Trim off damaged parts.
Signs of too much shade: Plants elongate, rosettes lose their tight form and stems become weak and 'floppy' when they do not receive enough light. This is very common with succulents grown as houseplants. Move plant into more light or partial sun.
Signs of too much water: Black spots on the leaves and stems that spread or grow larger are indicators of too much moisture in the soil and too much moisture sitting on the leaves or in the bases of leaves. Let the plant and soil dry out immediately - you may even need to replant it into dry soil. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Another symptom of too much water unfortunately means certain death. If the base of the stem at soil level turns to mush, it is too late...sorry.
Remember that it is easier to keep a plant healthy than to try to trouble-shoot and correct damage. If you are still in doubt, come visit the nursery and ask one of our professionals. Look for part two of this article featuring insect pests in an upcoming newsletter.
Jan Enderle, Advanced CCNPro

Whether it is for between stepping stones, hillsides, or the foreground of a border along a walk, Orchard Nursery has a nice variety of ground covers that will meet your criteria. Here is list of ground covers in stock through their planting seasons.
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SUN
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• Ajugas
• Aptenia cordifolia
• Armeria maritinia
• Cerastum tomentosum
• Chamomile
• Cymbalaria aequitriloba
• Dichondra
• Dymondia margarete
• Festuca ovina glauca
• Gazania hybrid (daybreak series)
• Herniaria Glabra
• Hypericum calycinum
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• Iceplants
• Isotma (blue star creeper)
• Ivy (hedera)
• Mint, creeping
• Moss, Scotch
• Myoporum parvifolium (white & Pink)
• Phlox sublata
• Potentilla verna |
• Polygonum capitatum
• Rosemary, creeping
• Sedums
• Strawberry, Ornamental
• Thymes
• Verbena
• Veronica
• Vinca Minor |
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SHADE/
PART SUN
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• Ajugas
• Baby tears
• Campanula muralis
• Cymbalaria awquitriloba
• Dichondra
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• Issotama
• Ivy
• Moss, (Scotch & Irish)
• Pennyroyal
• Pachysandra
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• Lamiums
• Bacopa
• Pllygonum capitatum
• Mondo grass
• Vinca Minor |
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