It's late winter, the time that deciduous shrubs like forsythias, spiraeas, magnolias, viburnums, flowering quince and lilacs start arriving at the nursery.  

Who can resist the beauty and sweet fragrance of freshly cut Lilac flowers brought into the house in early spring! But which one should you pick to plant in your garden? There are so many to choose from. Let me go over some basic differences in types of Lilacs that might help you decide.

If you are looking for the Lilac like your Great-Grandma had in her garden and passed down through the generations, then you probably want the straight species, Syringa vulgaris, the common lilac.  This has the typical scented lilac-lavender color flower and can get quite tall, ten to twenty feet, and more tree-like with age. All are best planted in the sun along the coast and part shade inland in hot areas. Look for Syringa vulgaris and Syringa vulgaris 'Alba' in the nursery.

If you want the big, bodacious clusters of fragrant flowers with lots of color choices, you want the French hybrid lilacs. Any of the named varieties of Syringa vulgaris are considered French hybrids. Just a few of the varieties that we have right noware Syringa vulgaris 'Miss Ellen Willmont' (double white), S.v. 'Katherine Havemeyer' (double rosy lavender), S. v. 'President Lincoln' (wedgewood blue), and S. v. 'Sensation' (wine-red edge in white).  These will reach from ten to fifteenfeet with age and take the same exposure as common lilacs.

If you want early blooming, try the Syringa X hyacinthiflora varieties like 'Pocahontas' (lilac violet) or 'Declaration' (reddish violet). These beautiful large flowered hybrids will bloom sooner than any of the French hybrids with the same lovely scented flower clusters.

For those of you in the warmer winter areas of Alameda County, try the Descanso hybrids like 'Lavender Lady' to make sure you get blooms. Most lilacs need a colder winter to bloom well.

There are even more lilacs to tell you about. I will continue with the many shrub and hedge varieties next week. Until then...come see what we have in stock now!

Jan Enderle CCNPro

 

High in potassium, iron, and vitamin A and C, cardoons are too bitter and tough to eat raw, but once cleaned and cooked, they are an unusual, tender delight. The stalks are dipped into the wonderful Piedmontese bagna cauda, a hot dip of olive oil and anchovies, and take well to frying, roasting, and making into soup.

Select bunches with firm, fresh turgid stalks, fresh looking leaves, and lots of available inner stalks. Keep in mind that the very tough outer stalks must be removed and discarded. So a good batch of inner stalks is important

Place cardoons in a plastic bag or wrap in a damp kitchen towels and keep in the refrigerator for a day or two. They are best when fresh, and since they take up a lot of space in the refrigerator, it is wise to prepare them soon after purchase.

In preparing, strip away and discard the tough outer stalks. Using a stainless steel or carbon-stainless steel alloy knife, strip the inner stalks of any thorny spurs and fibrous strings, much as you clean celery. Cut the stalks as directed in individual recipes and, if not put into liquid to cook immediately, immerse in water to which lemon juice has been added to stave off browning. You will usually need to simmer the cardoon pieces in liquid for 40 - 60 minutes, or until they are tender, before frying them or using them in a gratin or soup. They are good sautéed with butter or a sauce.

 

When it comes to maintaining beautiful lawns, nothing is more aggravating than crabgrass! Of all the turf problems that we get presented to us here at the nursery, crabgrass has to be number one (not to mention the one that is accompanied by the most frustration!). The good news is that there is a way to help prevent the germination of new crabgrass before it starts. Crabgrass primarily reproduces itself by way of seeds, but it requires several consecutive days of soil temperatures above 55 to 60 degrees for germination to occur. This makes spring in California an ideal time for crabgrass to infiltrate your lawn! However, if you act now and apply a pre-emergent in early spring, you can beat those nasty weeds to the punch. That is why we at Orchard Nursery recommend applying Easy Livin’ Pre-Emergent Weed Control & Lawn Food once in January and once again in February. Master Nursery Easy Livin’ both prevents new weeds from germinating and feeds your lawn with enough nitrogen to green it up in time to enjoy your yard in spring. Maintaining a gorgeous lawn is all about timing and consistency, and Master Nursery Easy Livin’ is a great way to start your lawn right this year and avoid those headaches later in the season!

 

Correct Answer: Jerusalem artichoke is a type of sunflower that is grown for its edible tuberous roots as well as its pretty yellow flowers.